PORTUGAL
Nestled between Spain and the Atlantic, Portugal boasts some of the oldest borders in Europe and a sailors' history that opened up most of the world's coastlines. Lisbon climbs seven hills above the Tagus in pastel and azulejo tile, Tram 28 winding through Alfama. Porto sits to the north, where the wine grown in the Douro Valley ages in cellars across the river. In between: medieval university towns, Roman ruins, and a coastline that runs from Nazaré's winter swells to the Algarve's limestone arches. Fado in the cafés after dark. Pastéis de nata in two bites, warm, with cinnamon.
A Taste of What's Possible
Sunrise breakfast picnic above the clouds in Madeira
Azulejo (tile) workshop in a master artisan’s private studio
Morning market and farmhouse cooking adventure with a chef in Alentejo
Where You'll Stay
We spend a lot of time obsessing over the perfect accommodations. Our favorites tend to be smaller, boutique properties with a unique sense of style and fantastic service.
Here are just a few of our favorites...
Three of Our Favorite Spots
LISBON
01
The capital city, strewn in the kind of clear Atlantic light that painters chase. Lisbon was leveled by an earthquake in 1755 and rebuilt with enough elegance that you'd never know it until you set foot in medieval Alfama or Bairro Alto. The rest of the capital city runs on a grid, and beyond the postcard, in hip neighborhoods like Principe Real and Marvila, designer boutiques, tiny galleries, warehouse breweries, and an inventive dining scene are just a few of the delights you’ll find among these seven hills. Did we mention pastéis de nata?
PORTO &
THE DOURO VALLEY
02
Portugal's second city and the wine country that built it. Lovely Porto sits on granite cliffs above the Douro River. The port lodges are across the bridge, and the azulejo-tiled Ribeira waterfront below perches you on a bar terrace watching river boats glide by. Sixty miles upriver, the Douro Valley opens into terraced vineyards stepping down to the river. Quintas open their balconies for stays, and tawny port with hard cheese is dessert. This is the world's first regulated wine region, and the proof is in the pudim.
THE ISLANDS
03
600 miles south and 900 miles west, Portugal quietly continues. Neither Madeira nor The Azores is easy to reach, which is part of the appeal. The garden island of Madeira is steep, subtropical, and threaded with ancient irrigation channels that double as walking paths through UNESCO laurel forest. The Azores are nine islands with nine personalities: São Miguel's crater lakes cradled in clouds, geothermal vents cooking stews; a whale-watching trade on Pico that replaced the old whaling one; and transatlantic sailors stopping to paint murals on Faial's marina walls. Getting here is an effort. Leaving is the hard part.
Sample Itinerary
Porto, Lisbon, and The Wild Algarve: 12 Days in Portugal
Day 1: On arrival in Porto, you'll be met and transferred by private vehicle to your magnificent hotel in the heart of the city. This evening, set out with a local expert on a culinary backstreets experience to discover the city's best tascas, hidden wine bars, and the kind of places that don't have signs out front.
Day 2: Embark on a morning walking tour with a local guide revealing Porto at its creative best, from the azulejo-tiled facades to the contemporary galleries tucked beside centuries-old churches. This afternoon, enjoy an after-hours visit to one of the world's great bookshops, entirely to yourselves.
Day 3: Hit the Douro on a vintage luxury boat today and travel upriver through terraced vineyards and granite hillsides, with lunch and tastings at a wine estate along the way.
Day 4: Travel onward heading south by private vehicle toward Lisbon, with a stop in Coimbra for a gastronomic and historical walking tour of the old city before continuing on to Lisbon. Settle into your lovely accommodations in the vibrant capital city.
Day 5: This morning explore the city's seven hills, its miradouros, and its quieter neighborhoods with a local insider. The afternoon is given over to a curated cultural shopping tour through the city's most storied purveyors of tiles, textiles, and tinned fish.
Day 6: Spend the day in Belém, Lisbon's monumental western quarter, with an insightful walking tour of its highlights, including the Jerónimos Monastery, the Torre de Belém, and the Padrão dos Descobrimentos. While here, enjoy lunch at one of the city’s finest seafood establishments.
Day 7: Get an early start for Sintra, arriving ahead of the crowds for an exclusive opening visit to the Pena National Palace, followed by the romantic gardens and mysterious initiation well of Quinta da Regaleira. Indulge in a private picnic on the palace grounds before returning to Lisbon for an evening fado tour through the Alfama's candlelit casas de fado.
Day 8: Today you travel east into the Alentejo, arriving in Évora in time for a historical tour of its Roman temple, medieval cathedral, and the unsettling beauty of the Capela dos Ossos. Enjoy lunch at an Alentejo institution before continuing to your gorgeous wine estate retreat for the next couple of days.
Day 9: A day to settle into the slow rhythms of the Alentejo. Ride out on horseback through cork oak and olive groves in the morning. After lunch, try your hand at traditional pottery with a local craftsman. This evening, gather in the estate kitchen for a workshop in Alentejo cooking.
Day 10: Continue south into the gorgeous Algarve — not the beach-resort Algarve, but the wilder, quieter stretch of coastline around the Ria Formosa. Check into your beautifully positioned retreat on the water's edge.
Day 11: Visit the vibrant market in Olhão to meet local producers and savor Algarve's culinary delights. Then embark on a private boat with a local fisherman to reach Culatra Island, a car-free barrier island where local fishermen have harvested oysters for generations. Visit an oyster farm to see the harvest in action, and enjoy fresh seafood and sparkling wine while learning about life on the island.
Day 12: Soak up the last bit of Algarve sun before your private transfer to the Lisbon airport for your onward journey home.
